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If you wish to eat at London’s hottest new eating places this yr, you’ll rapidly change into conversant in three ideas, spelled out in 4 phrases: France. Resurrection. Jeremy King.
There shall be a lot French meals and wine flowing round London, it’d begin to seem like a Jean-Luc Godard movie. Diners shall be forgiven for pondering they by chance received on the Eurostar and ended up on the opposite facet of the English Channel.
The Franco-gastro scene in London is increasing to embody the comfy meals of Lyon, the splashy scene of the Riviera and the hearty delicacies of Alsace. And there shall be a seemingly limitless variety of French-styled beverage packages: There won’t be any wine left in France come summer season. It’s the evolution of the pattern of Parisian bistros taking on London that kicked off in earnest a couple of yr in the past.
One other factor you’ll see: the rebirth of some the most well liked locations on the town within the noughties, and even additional again in time. Spots like Tom Sellers’ progressive eating vacation spot Restaurant Story, and Julie’s, the fabulous West London hangout, are getting correct makeovers.
But when there’s one particular person respiration new life into outdated eating places, it’s Jeremy King. The venerable restaurateur made headlines in 2022 when he was pushed out of the restaurant group he co-founded—and institutions he began, specifically the Wolseley. In 2024 he’ll welcome diners to 3 notable tasks, together with Simpsons within the Strand, which first began serving company in 1828, and Arlington. The latter is conveniently positioned across the nook from the Wolseley.
And there’s extra taking place in London’s eating places than simply French meals and reborn classics. Within the subsequent few months, openings shall be held for a four-story Singaporean emporium and the second location of Notting Hill’s beloved Mexican-Japanese restaurant Los Mochis—the brand new one opening on a Liverpool Avenue rooftop has a license to serve drinks till 3 a.m. Right here’s to nice eating in 2024 on the 16 locations that observe.
Re-openings
Restaurant Story, Southwark
Tom Sellers is inviting meals lovers again to his flagship spot, which closed final February for a renovation that value £2.5 million ($3.2 million). The high-profile chef wasn’t simply overseeing building throughout that hiatus; he opened Dovetale at 1 Resort Mayfair, which serves certainly one of London’s greatest roast chickens and a fantastical Knickerbocker Glory. Again at Restaurant Story, he’s serving the form of quietly luxurious high-end meals he’s change into identified for. The £250 nine-course tasting menus served at lunch and dinner begin with a “candle” course, that includes beef extract and Parker Home rolls, adopted by barbecued langoustine tails and roasted crown of duck with barrel-aged vinegar. The expanded wine record will embody 500 bottles, each outdated and new world, which you’ll be able to discover round a brand-new hearth pit for before- or after-dinner drinks. Opening: Jan. 12
Julie’s, Holland Park
Julie’s has attracted a glam crowd because it began pouring Champagne within the mid-’60s. In 2022 it closed. And now it’s again. New proprietor (and former Julie’s common) Tara MacBain tapped chef Owen Kenworthy, a veteran of the kitchens at Brawn and the Pelican, to supervise the all-day French brasserie menu. There shall be seafood towers from the uncooked fish counter, plus a roving martini trolley (and extra Champagne). The 160-seat place in Kensington features a two-level eating room and a terrace for good climate. MacBain says diners will hear “the melodies of stay piano music, in step with the restaurant’s historical past of attracting A-list musical skills from The Rolling Stones to Tina Turner,” to namecheck just a few celebrities that frequented the place. Opening: Spring
Gilgamesh, Covent Backyard
For years this was one of many restaurant world’s extra over-the-top areas, an 800-seat extravaganza that featured photos of the namesake hero within the £12 million design when it opened in 2006. However issues change, and now, after being closed for just a few years, Gilgamesh has relaunched in central London in a extra compact house—solely 160 seats. The place is unquestionably nonetheless theatrical, with a pan-Asian menu starting from small plates of popcorn shrimp with miso mayo, Japanese pizza with truffled tuna and baskets of dumplings to entrees like robata grilled lamb chops and cauliflower steaks. There are ubiquitous pornstar martinis, in addition to sake-infused drinks. At 10 p.m. a DJ takes over within the late lounge. Opened: Jan. 2
Simpson’s within the Strand, Covent Backyard
Simpson’s received its begin virtually 200 years in the past, lengthy earlier than Covent Backyard was the tourist-packed theater district it’s now. This yr it should reopen below the management of Jeremy King. The up to date Savoy lodge restaurant, spreading out over two flooring, is being executed by structure and design studio BradyWilliams. However be looking out for chess motifs, which was very a lot a theme of the unique. Just like the design, the up to date meals can pay homage to the normal Simpsons playbook, with steak-and-kidney pie and roasted beef rib, King’s workforce says. Opening: Autumn
The New Spots
Josephine, Chelsea
Chef Claude Bosi was busy in 2023, opening the elegant rooftop spot Brooklands within the Peninsula London and the trendy, Mediterranean-leaning Socca. His latest spot is extra family-oriented; he’s partnered along with his spouse, Lucy, serving dishes his grandmother Josephine cooked for him. There’s a mixture of Lyonnaise specialties, similar to sausages cooked in brioche with a Beaujolais sauce, and bistro classics like French onion soup and rabbit in mustard sauce. The wine program features a bin-end menu, with offers on bottles that shall be revolving off the record. The place was designed to evoke a neighborhood Burgundian spot with an inviting blue facade and some cafe seats arrayed out entrance on Fulham Street. Opening: January
Morchella, Clerkenwell
The workforce behind Newington Inexperienced cult favourite Perilla—which options the very best bread and butter in London—is bringing its pure wine and culinary sensibility to the Exmouth Market neighborhood. Ben Marks and Matthew Emmerson, together with chef Daniel Fletcher, will spotlight a Mediterranean menu of dishes, together with Santa Lucia-style octopus (stewed with tomatoes and garlic), salt-baked poussin, and hake with sobrasada sauce. The restaurant is ready in a former financial institution: Nearly 70 seats are arrayed across the open kitchen, and a convivial wine bar focuses on small, idiosyncratic producers. Opening: February
Camille, Borough Market
Prior to now yr vacation spot eating places like Rambutan, Kolae and Akara have been rolling into Borough Market. Up subsequent is Camille, a 40-seat French wine bar and restaurant from Clare Lattin and Tom Hill of Ducksoup fame and chef Elliot Hashtroudi, a veteran of St. John and the hip wine bar 107. The menu will supply impressed bistro dishes made with native produce from the market, with choices similar to tete de veau schnitzel, fennel-brown butter custard tart and a pasta of the day. The wine record is oriented towards small French labels. Opening: February
Singapulah, Soho
Ellen Chew has been pushing Singaporean meals in London for years at her Singapulah pop-up idea—this winter will see the inaugural brick-and-mortar incarnation. The four-floor idea on Shaftesbury Avenue will function rotating food-and-design purveyors, retail and a 100-or-so-seat eating house for company to get a style of the city-state’s delicacies. Chew’s grand undertaking is being supported by the Singaporean authorities; its tourism board helps market it. Opening: February
Arlington, Mayfair
This spot as soon as was residence to the celebrity-jammed hangout Le Caprice. Now the unstoppable restaurateur King is relaunching it as Arlington, named after the road it’s on. King says the design can have a well-recognized look, however provides that, “for issues to stay the identical, they’ve to alter.” (The social media hashtag: #NotLeCaprice.) The menu will function a few of Le Caprice’s classics, re-created by the new spot’s former chef, Will Halsall. Among the many place’s extra well-known dishes, again within the day: salmon fishcakes, the shrimp burger, rooster alla Milanese. The restaurant’s famed maitre d’, Jesus Adorno, will even return for motion. Opening: Early March
Los Mochis Metropolis, The Metropolis
At its Notting Hill flagship, Los Mochis specializes within the surprisingly scintillating mashup of Mexican and Japanese cuisines. This spring, a Metropolis outpost makes its much-anticipated debut up within the sky on the ninth ground at 100 Liverpool Avenue. On the huge, 14,000-square foot restaurant, founder Markus Thesleff and chef Leonard Tanyag, a Nobu veteran, have transplanted well-liked dishes like Trailer Park rooster tacos; new entrees will embody DIY tacos centered round platters of Wagyu Tomahawk chops and king crab legs. Additionally totally different from Notting Hill: a sushi bar and robata grill, an agave bar and an outside terrace with main views. The place will cater to the Metropolis crowd by serving breakfast within the morning and drinks till 3 a.m. Opening: March
The Park, Bayswater
Set in a wraparound nook house on the base of the Park Trendy constructing, this brasserie is one other undertaking from the very busy restaurateur King. The 215-seat spot is in a brand new house with loads of terrace seating; King says the environment will evoke the kind of place you may discover round Central Park. Actually, the all-day Grand Cafe menu has an American theme. Opening: Could
Mimosa, Mayfair
Final yr, the historic Langham London was residence to one of many metropolis’s most partaking eating experiences, the Caribbean-fired Good Entrance Room from chef Dominic Taylor. This yr, the lodge is bringing a brand new form of celebration to the property. Mimosa, an outpost of the favored Paris restaurant from the Moma Group, will deliver French Riviera power to Mayfair within the house previously occupied by Michel Roux. Now the eating room will function turquoise-colored banquettes and apricot-hued chairs, and a sunny, Mediterranean menu from Jean-François Piège. Opening: Spring
Akira Again and Dosa, Mayfair
Akira Again’s eating places dot the globe, from Paris to Seoul to Toronto. His first entry into London shall be on the 50-room Mandarin Oriental Mayfair in Hanover Sq. with a pair of eating ideas and a bar. At his eponymous 148-seat restaurant, the Korean-born former professional snowboarder will serve signature dishes just like the sashimi-topped AB Tuna Pizza and 48-hour quick ribs cooked galbi fashion. For London, he’s introducing a handful of dishes, together with wagyu tempura Wellington. On the 14-seat Dosa, he’ll serve trendy Korean dishes. And his ABar Lounge shall be a late-night cocktail venue with duck spring rolls and different snacks. Opening: Spring
July, Fitzrovia
One more good alternative to drink pure wine in London is coming, on Charlotte Avenue. Chef Holly Hayes, who used to go up the kitchen on the OG of wine bars, 40 Maltby Avenue, is overseeing the French-Alsatian all-day menu, which is able to begin with pastries within the morning and sandwiches at lunch; later within the day, there shall be dishes similar to halibut, clams and leeks with white wine and vin jaune butter sauce, plus charcuterie and cheese plates. Saturday lunches will function entire roast rooster with housemade mayo. Homeowners Solynka Dumas, a meals author, and Julian Oschmann received the thought for his or her homey restaurant and menu from internet hosting supper golf equipment in Berlin throughout lockdown. Opening: Spring
Langosteria, Westminster
The rollout of high-profile eating rooms on the commanding £1.4 billion OWO continues with this outpost of the modern Milan-based empire, which additionally has eating places on the Cheval Blanc Paris lodge and, quickly, in Miami. The seafood targeted menu will adhere to the model’s made-in-Italy philosophy, with the form of luxe dishes it’s change into identified for—fried purple prawns with scampi and calamari and spaghetti with rock lobster—in addition to some dishes that shall be created solely for London. Opening: Autumn
Outdoors London
The Backyard Cobham, Surrey
Ashley Palmer-Watts is recent off the opening of London’s buzziest vacation season restaurant, the Devonshire pub in Piccadilly Circus. Subsequent up in 2024, the previous Fats Duck Group chef will spend a while in a extra bucolic atmosphere: He’s beginning the Backyard Cobham in a picturesque Victorian property in Cobham, with an array of consuming and consuming choices. The primary section of the opening will function a wine bar with 50 seats and a menu of small plates, in addition to a bakery and a restaurant with 30 seats inside and 80 within the courtyard; a pair months later comes a 35-seat, fine-dining restaurant. Ultimately, the house can have a handful of rooms for company who don’t wish to go anyplace after feasting within the idyllic setting.Opening: Spring